Making wholegrain sourdough breads… simply
By Richard Trombly
I remember being in my grandmother’s kitchen and learning the secrets of baking with her nearly every day. She made amazing cookies, pastries, cakes and breads from her recipe box of careworn index cards detailing delicacies handed down from her mother and grandmother. She loved the process, the detail and the effort despite the hard work that went into baking because of the sweet rewards in tasting the end product.
One day, her friend Maraget came over with a loaf of sourdough bread and even gave her a jelly jar filled with some sourdough starter culture as a gift. After toasting it, the chewy, airy interior of the bread absorbed the meltng butter so well. I loved the flavor of the bread, with the rich texture of rye flour and the sharp taste of the caraway seeds nestled into the crispy brown crust.
I was confused though. After her friend left, her mood had turned sour. She looked at the bottle of bubbly starter dough with a dour expression. I asked her why she seemed so glum when her friend gave her such a nice gift.

My grandmother explained to me what a white elephant gift is. She said that now she would have to care for the starter daily, discard lots of flour needlessly and would have to make loaves and loaves of sourdough bread. I said making sourdough loaves seemed like a pretty delicious proposition.
In an uncharacteristically grim tone, she furrowed her brow and said that the sourdough makes for a lot of unneccessary work compared to her normal baking. She also did not like the cost of so much flour. Having lived through the hard times or WWI, the Great Depression and WWII, she was extreme on avoiding extravagance or wastefulness.
She explained that she would now have to bake sourdough several times a week and show her friend the beautiful loaves she made and praise Margaret’s generousity within their social circle for a few months before she could finally rid herself of the starter and move on.
The sourdough method she knew, handed down from her ancestors, involved feeding the starter a cup of flour (about 100 grams) and discarding all but 100 grams of the starter in the process each day. Since she would never toss anything out, it meant that she would have to find things to bake from that starter. I went to grandma’s house for breakfast almost daily for sourdough starter pancakes during the two months that she had the sourdough. We also ate alot of delicious bread and she gave loaves to relatives and friends. She always praised Margaret as the source of this bounty but she never offered to share the starter and when one relative seemed interested and asked about it she dissauded them saying it was too much trouble.
I was there the day she purposefully “accidently” knocked the jelly jar off the counter into the carefully placed trash bin under her kitchen counter.
“Oops, the jar fell,” she said. She truly could not tell a lie. She let out a sigh of relief and smiled at me.
“If Margaret learns you dropped it, won’t she just give you more?” I asked.
“Oh no,” she giggled. “Margaret could not keep up with it and threw away her starter culture a month ago.”

I recently read Richard Bertinet’s book Crust: Bread to Get Your Teeth Into. It inspired me to consider sourdough because his common sense and healthy approach to baking enticed me. I know there is a whole vast cult of Youtuber sourdough and artisanal bread afficionados and their subscribers whose lives revolve around the ideal moisture content and the perfect crust “spring” and ideal “crumb texture” inside. They nearly turned me away from pursuing sourdough but there were some articles from people who advocated doing things an easier way and advocated just using sourdough for the health benefits of pure wholegrain breads that have been cultured with beneficial yeasts and bacterias.

While there are sourdough beginner kits that cost over $100, you do not need to buy special gear, dutch ovens, or even purchase the sourdough starter. I made my starter from scratch by putting 100 g, each of small apple chunks and raisins into at least 100 g or water or enough to cover the fruits and letting it sit for three days. After that toss the fruits and mix 100 g. of the fruity liquid with 100 g. of equal parts wholewheat and bread flour. in 12 hours, keep 100 grams of mix and discard the rest and then feed it 100 g. or flour and 100 g, of water.
Repeat the feeding and discard process every 8-12 hours for about 10 times. By now you should have a stable colony of beneficial yeast and bacteria that will cause the starter bubble abundantly and to double in volume within 12 hours.
At this point you can save as little as 25 g. of starter each day and add only 25 g. of flour mixture and 25 g. of water to minimize waste when you are not baking. You can scale up the flour and water mix a day or two before baking to have the needed amount of fermented sourdough for your recipe.
The beautful thing is that the daily discard is only 25 g. of flour and 25 g. of water. Do not throw it away, it can be used in many recipies. Keep a container of discard in the refrigerator and add to it daily. It will last for weeks. If you need to travel or just do not plan to bake for a period of time, you can put your starter colony “to sleep” in the refrigerator for up to a week and not think about it.
Some people will spend tremendous amounts of money and effort to make perfect loaves of artisan bread. They knead and fold and stretch the dough and work it repeatedly over several hours until it has the ideal consistency and then will carefully shape it into proofing baskets to rise up. They might use cast iron dutch ovens inside their oven for perfect baking.

One of the reasons they pay so much attention to the texture is because sourdough has a tendency to lose its shape and spread out flat and thin. Artisans work hard to make the dough strong enough to hold together firmly before baking.
I am too busy for that. I simply love how the fermented dough softens wholegrains and makes them easier to digest and is incredibly nutritious. Following the advice of more laidback bakers, I found that you can make delicious loaves with minimal effort. Instead of working for that perfect dough consistency and strength, I am happy to drop it into a breadpan and let it bake as a rectangular loaf which is perfect for sandwhich slices or toast. When I have the time, I do occassionally make a beautiful artisan round loaf or elegant batardes.
There are many recipes, but sourdough offers the ultimate in simplicity. All that is needed for the basic loaf is the starter, flour, water and salt. I usually add seeds like chia, flax, caraway or sesame to a mix of wholegrain and quality bread flours.
I have made great tasting breads with only a minimal amount of working the dough and then leaving it to “proof” or ferment for up to 16 hours. If you proof it overnight, that means fresh, piping hot and healthy bread for breakfast.















































